February 2012

If any of you have never read Hawaii by James Michener, you have missed a treat. A wonderful book. Part of it talks of the Leper Colony on Moloka'i. My friend Peter who lives on Kuaii told me you can fly to Moloka'i and take a donkey ride down to Kalaupapa, so I thought I would take advantage of my kind nephew's offer to loan me his apartment & visit.

My nephew Ken lives near Koko Head on Oahu Hawaii. Turn left at the second volcano after passing Waikiki beach. If you get wet, you have gone too far.

But first I have to get there..

I head out of Ottawa where it is unsurprisingly veeeeeery cold...

And arrive at Ken's place in Hawaii Kai, in time for rush hour...

Next day I went for a walk to get some breakfast and saw this lady doing the doggy paddle..

After breakfast I was wandering around and came across a marine supply shop that was offering scuba diving trips. I do not scuba but enquired if they would let me tag along with them anyway. This was fine by them, & they gave me a price of something like 20 dollars for a morning out on the ocean.

We pass Koko Head, which my nephew tells me he runs up and down a couple of time a day!!! A likely story..

Don't recall what this is called but it looks great fun...

The boat stops for people to get their gear on and get wet. Someone throws a bit of bait in the water to attract a few fish & my mind wonders if there are any sharks around here who might be hungry. Maybe go out for a Chinese, dear. Or Korean?

Is that someone drowning? No silly boy - it's a Turtle..

One guest, an Australian girl, got quite ill while in the water & the crew got another boat out to take her ashore,.

We headed back to shore after a very pleasant, inexpensive mornig

THE NEXT DAY

FLYING TO MOLOKA'I

I met my friend Baki who lives here and set off from the civil aviation airport. I forget what this trip cost but it was worth it just for th flight there and back.
You'll see why..

TRAVELLING OVER DIAMOND HEAD....

I must walk up that one of these years.

Over Ken's apartment & Koko Head

before landing at Kalaupapa

Our plane parked by the gate...

Not our plane...

We board our bus. I had chickened out about taking the donkey ride down. I forget the ins & outs but there is some rule here that you cannot just stroll into Kalaupapa. You have to be invited. We were 'invited', I think, by the bus driver. I might have that wrong but it's something like it.

We had a rest while waiting for these people who did do the ride. They enjoyed it but I do not think they were looking forward to the ride back up

Had a quick chat with this nun. Her order have been involved with Kalaupapa since it's inception I think. She was just bubbling about the fact that one of the original nuns who came here, Mother Marianne, is about to be made a Saint by the Catholic church.

Imagine that. Your boss is a Saint! Not too many people who can make that claim.
Except you - Lucie.

The group is all now assembled so we started our tour of the island

Father Damien who gets mentioned in the Michener book, with a buddy....

You might not want to peer too closely at this next photo. It is a photo of a photo of some of the people who had Leprosy

Not a bad photo by any means & it is on public display after all, but take care

We stopped at a book shop & the guide recommended this. On the way home I bought it at the airport or thought I did. Same title, different author. I will remember the other guy soon. It's a fictional account of one persons life on the island & if you feel like a good cry, read it.
A Great book.

Alan Brennert - that's his name.

And that's it for Moloka'i - It's hard to put into words what it's like here but it is very sobering. Leprosy has such a long history & almost overnight it was gone. Someone found a drug & poof - no more. It is still in the world of course but curable. The deformities do not revert though.

Steve

One last look at Diamond Head as we fly past. Or is that Koko Head?

THIS TRIP STARTED WITH A PLEASANT TRAIN RIDE TO QUEBEC CITY, VIA MONTREAL

WHERE IT WAS STILL QUITE COLD. KIDS OUT AT NIGHT, ICE SKATING OUTSIDE THE THEATER WHERE I SAW A RATHER STRANGE, BUT VERY ENTERTAINING SINGER..

I HAD A DAY TO STROLL AROUND QUEBEC WHIICH IS ABOUT THE MOST SCENIC CITY IN CANADA.

NOT MY BOAT & NOT MY HOTEL EITHER

IT'S VERY HILLY WITH SOME LOVELY LITTLE SIDE STREETS...

I TOOK THE FERRY OVER TO LEVI & BACK. DID NOT BOTHER GETTING OFF IN LEVI

IN THE EVENING I TOOK A GHOST WALK ... VERY SPOOKY. THE GUIDE HAD A LANTERN AND TOLD SCARY STORIES AT EACH LOCATION.

OUR LAST STOP WAS INSIDE A LOCKED CHURCH, WITH THE LIGHTS OUT AND JUST THE LANTERN ON.

SHE TOLD THE STORY OF A COUPLE OF KIDS WHO GOT THEMSELVES LOCKED IN ON PURPOSE & WERE THEN SCREAMING TO GET OUT..

ONTO THE SHIP NOW & LEAVING QUEBEC CITY.

OMINOUS LOOKING CLOUDS IN THE DISTANCE ...

& OMINOUS THEY WERE .. HURRICANE SANDY FORCED US TO HIDE OVERNIGHT IN HALIFAX INSTEAD OF GOING TO PORTLAND IN MAINE. IT WAS VERY WINDY AND NOT TOO PLEASANT EVEN IN HALIFAX, SO I JUST WENT FOR A WALK & HAD SOME FISH & CHIPS AND A BUS BACK TO THE SHIP.

SKIPPING PORTLAND & TWO FOOD TOURS I HAD PLANNED WITH PAT & HER FAMILY, WE STOPPED AS SCHEDULED IN BOSTON WHICH ESCAPED SANDY SOMEHOW.

I LEFT THE SHIP & ASKED SOMEONE THE BEST ROUTE TO DOWNTOWN & HE SAID 'END OF THE STREET, TURN LEFT'.

WELL DOWNTOWN BOSTON IS ABOUT THREE HOURS GOING LEFT AS I FOUND OUT .. AND ABOUT TEN MINUTES TURNING RIGHT.

ANYWAY - I HAD NOTHING BETTER TO DO THAN HAVE A STROLL AROUND SOME LESS TOURISTIC PARTS OF BOSTON..

WE WERE ALSO SUPPOSED TO STOP IN NEW YORK BUT SANDY HAD CREATED TOO MUCH DEBRIS IN THE HARBOUR SO WE SKIPPED THAT TOO .. I WAS SUPPOSED TO HAVE MET SANDY & KEN & SONNY HERE BUT THAT WAS A WASHOUT.

THIS IS A PIECE OF ART ON BOARD - NEW YORK I THINK.

NCL HAS SOME OF THE BEST ENTERTAINMENT AFLOAT. THIS IS JUST ONE OF THE SINGERS...

AND THE USS WISCONSIN IN NORFOLK ON THE WAY TO WILLIAMSBURG ...

AND YORKTOWN ...

BEFORE LANDING IN BALTIMORE FOR THE RIDE INTO WASHINGTON...

THE VIETNAM WALL & THE IMPRESSIVE NURSES MEMORIAL..

A HOUSE IN THE HILLS OPPOSITE WASHINGTON. I FORGET THE NAME BUT SOMEONE FAMOUS LIVED THERE.

& SOMEONE FAMOUS IS STILL LIVING HERE...

SOME FUTURE VOTERS BEING LED BY THE NOSE?

A QUICK FLIT AROUND THE SPACE MUSEUM....

AND WE MOVE ON TO CHARLESTON SOUTH CAROLINA WHERE I DO ACTUALLY MEET SOMEONE I HAD PLANNED TO.

BJ & JACK, FROM NORTH CAROLINA. DOWN HERE TO JOIN ME FOR A FOOD TOUR, WHERE WE HAVE GRITS. HMMMM! MY FAVOURITE..

WELL THERE'S JACK, BUT WHERE'S BJ?

THERE SHE IS. BUYING ME LUNCH. MORE GRITS.

NOW WE ARE INTO MIAMI AND THAT WAS NEIL WHO, WITH RACHELLE HAS BEEN ON THE SHIP WITH ME SINCE QUEBEC.

ON THE HOHO THROUGH LITTLE HAVANA...

AND TO THE BEACH FOR A LOOK AT THE ART DECO BUILDINGS. VERY PASTEL...

OFF THE BUS AND WE MOVE ON TO KEY WEST...

.... I THINK THIS MAY BE THE QUEEN ... YOU DON'T OFTEN SEE HER DOING THE GROCERIES THOUGH

PASS ON THE ...ASS BOTTOM BOAT & TAKE ANOTHER FOOD TOUR INSTEAD.

I AM GETTING TO LIKE THEM.
I DOUBT I WOULD HAVE FOUND THIS LITTLE SPOT ON MY OWN.

THIS IS ALL HOT PEPPERS - SOME OF IT VERY HOT...

A STROLL AROUND KEY WEST .. A PASSING WEDDING...

AND POSERS AT THE END OF THE ROAD..

THIS IS NENETTE FROM THE PHILIPPINES. THE THIRD CRUISE I HAVE BEEN ON WITH HER.

AND NOW WE HAVE REACHED TAMPA & ARE OFF THE SHIP WHERE RACHELLE, NEIL & I ARE GONG TO TAKE A CONDO FOR A FEW DAYS ON THE BEACH AT TREASURE ISLAND..

WE RENT A CAR & RACHELLE DRIVES US DOWN FLORIDA A LITTLE BIT TO GO VISIT MARTHA AT HER QUITE WONDERFUL, VILLA..

WHERE WE GET THE TOUR ...

MARTHA PAINTS BUT I DON'T THINK THIS IS ONE OF HERS..

MARTHA THEN TAKES US FOR A SPIN AROUND HER TOWN WHERE THE AVERAGE AGE IS 80 & THERE ARE LOTS OF PLACES TO SIT DOWN BUT I DON'T SEE ANY DIAPER CHANGING STATIONS

THIS GUY IS PROSPECTING FOR SHARKS TEETH. REALLY - THERE ARE LOTS ALONG THE SHORE HERE.

WE SAY GOODBY TO MARTHA & HER CAT ....

& MOVE ON TO WALK ALONG A BEACH WITH A RANGER GUIDING US, FOR FREE,,,

THEN ITS' GOODBYE TO THE BIRDS ON THE BEACH & BACK TO OTTAWA AFTER A GREAT BREAK.

SANDY GOT IN THE WAY A BIT BUT WE NEVER HAD ANY BAD WAVES & THE ONLY WIND WAS THE DAY IN HALIFAX, WHERE I HAD THE BONUS OF SOME EXCELLENT FISH & CHIPS

Getting to Johannesburg....& pre-cruise journey

The flight from Ottawa to Toronto was very good as they were able to get me on an earlier flight which give me more time to make my connection. Even though I have a Nexus (trusted traveler) card, US immigration made me go through a secondary inspection & went through my bags. Took over half an hour so I was glad of the extra time available to me. 
In the event, I did not need the extra time as the plane to Atlanta had broken down & they had to bring in a replacement. Arrived very late at Atlanta & made check-in 5 minutes after the plane was due to leave. Naturally, this plane was leaving on time.
The girl at the desk chatted on the phone while I fretted about how to proceed. She finished her call & said the plane was still at the gate on account of bad weather & they were opening the door for me to board. Never heard of that before. A stewardess kneeled down beside me gave the safety talk - just for me.
I tried to make small talk with the lady sitting beside me but she kept crying. A couple of hours later she explained that she was being deported from the US for outstaying her visa. Sad story - they would not even let her return to her home to get her husband’s ashes.
Hotel in Johannesburg was very swish, if you discount the mushrooms growing on the outside of the patio door. Had golf buggies to take guests from reception to the room. Press a button & the TV rises from a cabinet at the foot of the bed.

At dinner met the other 20 some people on the tour. Seem like a nice crowd. US & Canadian couples mainly & 2 sets of 2 ladies... & me. 

Arriving in Zimbabwe...

We had all been told that we needed a 50 dollar, multiple entry visa so we all lined up on the Multiple visa line.
We found that US people had to pay 47 dollars for a multiple entry while having a UK passport, I had to pay 70 dollars. Canadians were incensed when they found out they would only be issued single entry visas at a cost of 70 dollars & they were in the wrong line. While they were arguing the toss, a couple jumped the line ahead of me. I asked why they were doing that & the guy replied. ‘I am american’. I assume he meant the he was not Canadian but it came across as very arrogant. Did not get on well with him for the rest of the trip.
When we eventually all got across immigration the guide didn’t know how many people we were supposed to be, so another delay.

Victoria Falls....

This really is amazing & we had great weather for it. The falls puts up lots of spray so photo taking is difficult but there are rainbows in every direction. 


The falls are a lot longer than I expected & we walked for quite awhile.

It was a bit rushed though on account of the delay at the border & the need to get to the Botswana border before it closed at nightfall. We made it, just.

Chobe Park Botswana....

We arrived at the lodge after dark to a great reception with the staff singing a welcome. & what a lodge. We are led to our separate lodges by a guide & shown around the room. 



Huge room with another large room behind housing bath & shower & another shower in the garden beyond. Not that I ventured out there to use it.
The next 2 days we were out on safari. Elephants, Elephants & more elephants. Maybe 58,000 in the park although we did not see near that many. Lots of other animals. Up close Giraffes & all sorts including my favourite  - Dung Beetles. No - these are baboons of course...

This Elephant took exception to us & charged - No damage.

At another spot, we sat in the car with another 4 or 5 cars trying to spot a lion the guides said was in the bush. We never saw a Lion. Just as we were leaving, a car broke down & some passengers transferred cars & we all left one couple with the broken car. We learned later that the Lion came out of the bush & charged their car.
A likely story!

The view from the bar down to the Chobe River

We came across a pack of Wild Dogs, maybe 20, & travelled with them for a while. DId not see them catch anything but a couple were eating something raw.


All great fun.
We were due to go on a boat ride on the river but it was cancelled due to a huge thunder storm. A clap of thunder almost made me bounce off the bed.

Back to Zimbabwe....

Less Visa aggravation this time. The guide took all our passports & we waited for him on the bus. We did manage to leave 2 guests behind at the lodge though. These guys have a problem keeping count. 

A wonderful trip but too many border crossings in too few days. I knew it was going to be like that.

Then on to Johannesburg where I was reunited with my luggage which did not make the original flight. The Botswana lodge had free laundry but I had no spare clothes so could not take advantage of that.

And on to Cape Town to board the Oceania Nautica. Oceania has an amazing reputation as being one of the best cruise lines afloat. I differ...

Anyways - the actual trip was quite good.

CAPE TOWN...



Since I had only been on Cape Town the prior May & had done most of the tourist stuff, I decided on a tour to the Townships. These being areas set up during apartheid for the various races & are what I understood to be slums. A little scary considering their reputation, but this is not Johannesburg.
There were only 6 of us including the guide. A young Swedish guy & a German couple with a young girl of maybe 8 or 9. Hey, if she can do it, so can I.

We started in the Cape Malay area which I had been through before & not realised it. Very close to downtown. Houses are very colourful & not in the least what I expected & not a slum by any means. This is where the coloureds lived & still do live.
Next up was District 6 where there are no buildings as it has all been razed to the ground. I still don’t know the significance of this area or what is going to happen to it but it was probably for blacks at one time. A lot of expensive real estate not being used. 
We visited a center where people are taught to teach people various crafts. Pottery, painting etc. 



There was a room where a couple of kids were drumming on bongo type drums & we all got to sit down while the teacher showed us how to beat them ( the drums that is ). Before we knew what was happening we were beating out a tune. Great fun but very hard on the hands.
Lots of good looking stuff for sale & we were meeting the artists whose work it was.

Then went to visit inside a house in a blacks area. Not much different to a poor house in England.



We all trooped in where there was a very shy young lady doing the dishes at the sink. Hopefully she must get a few dollars from our tour guide.

This is the Swedish guy & the guide. Nice door - I had one like that in England. The top opens independently to the bottom - "to let peoples smles in & their bodies out".



There was a funeral going on across the road for what must have been a very well respected lady  nurse, who’s photo was all over the place. On telephone polls, in the back of cars, etc. All the attendees looking a little overdressed in suits.

Last we went to more of a slum.  This is the German lady looking a little grumpy.



The guide dropped us off with another guy who then walked us down the road passing portable toilets like you see at rock concerts. & water taps with people washing themselves & pots & pans. Some of the faucets are missing of course as they are worth cash to someone. We carried on walking and around the block. It was funny seeing the reactions of young black girls on the street to our young girl. They check her out & her clothes & she peeps from behind her mom, checking them out.
We then got to the guides house...



& went inside where we were in illustrious company. A photo on the wall of him with Laura Bush...

 


Right next to the wires & under the corrugated iron ceiling. 

His house is a good 50  yards from his port-a-cabin toilet that we had passed earlier. 

He told the story of when apartheid ended, they were told they were going to build 5 million houses in 5 years when what happens is they are building 5 houses in 5 million years. He has been on a housing list for a move for over 20 years & never expects to move. Various levels of housing are very close together but it is going to be a long time before they get anywhere near a decent level. End of tour & I still did not see anything approaching what I was expecting  but the areas cover miles on the Cape flats behind Table Mountain .


& we probably did not get shown the really bad areas. 

Not scary at all, unlike Brixton. You read so much. I have been on Johannesburg twice now but never did get to Soweto ( stands for South Western Township - very Zulu ) which is the famous black township there. Maybe next time.
An interesting tour & one I would recommend & would do again if I went back.

Spent the rest of the day shopping & wandering around the V&A waterfront which is where the ship was docked & on another planet. Its a bit like the shopping center in Portsmouth, only hotter. & you don't expect Indian chiefs.

 
Next I actually start the cruise & head round the Cape of Good Hope to Durban.

Actually I lied. It’s East London up next, not Durban. First day was at sea & we rounded the Cape of Good Hope at night so no photos  of it from the ship but this was in May. You will just have to imagine the ship floating past over my shoulder..Note the ear muffs, it was a tad windy.

and a few more from May of Table Mountain..

Inkenkwezi Safari park

is where I’m heading today.

Botswana it’s not. There are 3 elephants here. Chobe park had 68 thousand. Anyway it should be a nice ride out into the countryside which it was & there were a few animals including a couple of Rhino way off in the distance, Giraffe various antelope & some white lions. 

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You have to drive into a separate enclosure to get to the lions so whereas they could eat us, they cannot eat the other animals. Not that they showed the least inclination to eat us although I could have fed them an obnoxious American couple who were in my van.

Durban is the next port

it’s off to see some Zulu & maybe some naked ladies. Durban has quite the spectacular setting. Lovely hill views on the way out of the city & a parade in town for the upcoming African cup of nations football competition.

The Zulu village was totally fake with not a sign of Michael Cain anywhere but good fun nevertheless with the drumming & guys jumping around.

And the Zulu girls must be getting plenty to eat. A nice missionary hot pot maybe, with salad & some fava beans. Not only are they not topless you can just make out the Lycra leggings under their skirts.



There was also a little tour to see Crocodiles in concrete pools. Not too awesome.

And a very welcome cold drink at a lovely little bar attached to the Crocodile place

In the evening, Sandy & I went to the beach

& a restaurant in a beached cargo ship

where they have chopped the hold in half. One side is the restaurant & the other they filled with water & fish. Fish for my meal too of course.



anyway - that's enough excitement for one day.

Richards bay up tomorrow. Still South Africa.

So, now we are docked in Richards Bay

heading north & we saw this , which you don't see everyday..

Not much to see in town which is very poor compared to Cape Town & a boring sort of ride out to the St. lucia wetlands in the hopes of seeing birds, Crocodiles & Hippos.

Went out on a river boat like this....

& knew there would not be much wildlife cos by the time we got there it was going on noon & HOT, HOT HOT.
Never mind. It as a little cooler moving on the water & we did see quite a lot of Hippos but no crocodiles & few birds.

Some people have spotted something..

Aboard the boat..

& more Hippo..

And a solitary Eagle of some kind... Fish Eagle, maybe...

This lady is holding a Hippo tooth. Hate to see their dental bills.

Everyone raves about South Africa & how beautiful it is & bits are certainly that, but I am not over-impressed. Can't seem to make up my mind if it is too artificial or not. Certainly would not like to live there & I think I have seen enough of it now & no need to go back.